Fetish was the name of the game at Marc Jacobs’ A/W 2011/12 collection for Louis Vuitton, and it is a fetish for the entire collection that I now have. The show was based on Jacobs’ interpretation of hotel living and the characters that one encounters. Models dressed as chauffeurs, wives, hookers and maids complete with feather dusters entered the runway via elevators operated by real life porters – just one of the elements contributing to the extravagance we have come to expect from Louis Vuitton.
The kinky collection was varied in form but not quality and every piece would be a fabulous addition to any girl’s wardrobe. There were cover-all coats that screamed ‘I’ve got nothing under here’ and see through pieces revealing just that. Thigh high pantyhose teamed with 50’s style cashmere briefs channelled high-class escorts that looked anything but cheap. I’m not sure if the addition of porter’s hats made the outfit more or less appropriate to leave the house in.
There were knee high rubber boots, corsets and bodysuits. For a moment the set could have been mistaken for a gentlemen’s club. Fur, sequins, python and appliqués made this collection one of the most complex in terms of texture. Mid-calf length dresses and skirts, a season staple, will no doubt be a hit with loyal customers while cropped jodhpur-looking pants with exaggerated hips will prove much harder to wear.
If there was one particular fetish Jacobs wanted to highlight, it had to be handbags. The bag to covet this season? The Lockit. Simply carrying such a bag will not suffice – models sauntered down the runway wearing handcuffs that were fastened to the bag. Lock it indeed.
As if the show didn’t have enough going for it already, Louis Vuitton pulled out the big guns by booking Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell among the sixty-seven strong cast. It’s a collection I could watch over and over again and that’s because it wasn’t just a show, it was a performance, and like any great performance it had ingenious costumes to match.